Moluccan Cockatoo – Profile & Care Guide

Salmon Crested Cockatoo

Common name: Salmon-crested Cockatoo, Moluccan Cockatoo
Latin name: Cacatua moluccensis
Length: 40 – 50 cm (15.6 – 19.5 inches)
Weight: 775 – 935g (27.1 – 32.7 oz)
Life Span: 40-60 years
Origin: Native to south Moluccus and eastern Indonesia
Noise Level: Shrill screech with quavering notes, out-volume any other bird, and are extremely loud.
Food, Toys, Cages & Accessories suitable for Cockatoo’s.

Moluccan CockatoosSalmon Crested CockatooMoluccan Cockatoo

INTELLIGENCE

Moluccan Cockatoo’s have incredible emotional intelligence, and are highly complex. These parrots are so intelligent that there have been many cases where they have figured out how to escape their cage, and are said to be equipped with a variety of technical skills that help them accomplish this.

TALKING ABILITY

Moluccan Cockatoo’s are recognised as one of the loudest parrots, and their vocal volume is considerably louder than most birds. Moluccan’s will scream for no reason, and will often do so in the middle of the night. Due to their loudness it takes a specific kind of household to live peacefully with a Moluccan. Moluccan’s are not known for their talking ability, however they are able to mimic a few words or more accurately put; yell a few words.

FEATHER PLUCKING

Moluccans demand attention from their owners, and when under stimulated or not provided with the adequate amount of attention they will easily become bored, and this will lead to preening. Consistent preening then becomes a plucking problem. Lack of attention can cause severe depression in these birds, as they are extremely social. Stress and boredom thus remain the main causes of feather plucking in Moluccan cockatoos.

HOUSING FOR YOUR MOLUCCAN COCKATOO

  • Moluccan’s are very large birds and need the biggest cages you can afford.
  • They require a lot of space. A walk-in aviary would be the most ideal cage.
  • Ideal aviary length should be 4.5m (14.7 ft.)
  • Minimum cage size should be at least 30-36 inches deep, 48 inches wide, and 6 feet high.
  • Provide them with a variety of chewable toys for mental stimulation.
  • Make available, sterilized pine cones, vegetable tanned leather items, hard plastic puzzle items, food finders, and different sized perches for mental enrichment.
  • Overhead misters or spray bottles for bathing a few times a week are ideal.
  • Allow your Moluccan a considerable amount of time out of their cage, because they highly dislike confinement.

FEEDING & SUPPLEMENTS FOR YOUR MOLUCCAN COCKATOO

  • Feed your Moluccan a high quality parrot seed mix or a complete parrot diet.
  • Supplement the staple diet with various fruits & vegetables.
  • Organic, and all-natural bird mixes are ideal.
  • Quality mixes contain a variety of seeds, nuts, dried fruits, and veggies.
  • Introduce calcium into their diets with the use of a cuttlebone or supplements like AVIMIX and BSP.
  • Fresh clean water should be available at all times.
  • Wash their food and water bowls on a daily basis.
  • Aim to provide a balanced and healthy diet and never overfeed your parrot.
  • Incorporate foraging into their feeding regime for mental stimulation.

FACTS

These birds are considered extremely needy, and constantly demand the affection of their human counterpart.

The world population is under threat as they are popular in the pet trade, and their IUCN status is vulnerable. As a result of the exotic bird trade there are  around 99,000 Moluccan cockatoo’s world-wide.

Their intelligence level makes them notorious cage escape artists.

Both males and females partake in the incubation process.

Moluccans will attack young coconuts by chewing through the tough outer layers to get to the soft pulp, milk, and are considered pests in coconut plantations.

Which Parrot Species Should You Choose?

Which Parrot Species Should You Choose

Which Parrot Species Should You Choose?

Which Parrot Species Should You ChooseIf you are thinking about buying your first Parrot, don’t think too big! First-time Parrot buyers often start too ambitiously and end up realizing they literally cannot handle such a large bird after all.

The story gets even more complicated if the new owner still feels a bit ambivalent about owning a Parrot. Unfortunately, it is common in these situations for people to be frightened of potential injury, so they don’t allow their Parrot out of the cage. This is a sure way of condemning your parrot to a poor life quality.

Small Parrots, on the other hand, don’t seem to concern their owners that much. From the pet bird keeper’s point, they have various advantages in comparison to larger ones. They are relatively inexpensive to feed, and large, expensive accommodation is not a necessity.

The wisest newcomers to Parrot-keeping usually chose one of the species from this group. In most cases, Small Parrots are readily available at a reasonable or even low price; which indicates that they are easy to breed. You can often find them in a range of color mutations, and many of them are incredibly beautiful. Long story short, they might be the perfect option for your Parrot keeping 101?

Even though these Parrots are small, they appreciate human companionship just as much as larger species. In fact, most small Parrots are highly sociable, so it might be a good idea to purchase them the same species companion. If you decide to do this, make sure to buy the other Parrot at the same time or soon after the first one.

Having two Parrots at the same time will offer you an opportunity to observe their behavior from a different angle. Seeing them interact with each other can be enjoyable. In my opinion, a single Lovebird or Parrotlet left alone for hours is the saddest thing you can witness. However, if they have a close bond with their human caregiver solitude won’t be so tough.

So, if we can agree on the fact that buying a Macaw as your first Parrot is not the most sensible thing to do, and that starting small makes sense, which species should you consider? Before you decide on the species that will be the best fit for your household, read more information about them and then make a smart choice:

Budgerigar
Cockatiel
Lineolated Parakeet
Parrotlet
Peach-faced Lovebird

Or, if you plan on building an outdoor aviary, you can also go with Ringneck Parakeet or one of the several species of Rosella.

Single bird or a pair?

As we already mentioned single parrot is often a lonely parrot. Buying a single pet is a legitimate choice only if you can spend much time with it daily. Still, what if you purchase a pair? Are you ready to breed them? The market for particular species is already saturated which is one of the reasons why some owners don’t like the idea of having to part with the young.

As we know, many small Parrots are inexpensive and prolific. If their value is low, it becomes difficult to find them appropriate homes where their quality of life won’t be questionable. In the majority of species, two males are capable of living happily together. At the same time, in most species, more males are available on the market as fewer females are bred.

Two females might also be compatible, but there is an exception to this rule. If the species is female-dominant, like Lovebirds or a Poicephalus Parrot such as a Senegal or Meyer’s, for example, matching two females might become a problem.

If you are living in a small space and your pet would have a limited area to explore, going with Celestial or Pacific Parrotlets (Forpus coelestis) might be a good idea. They are smaller than Lovebird, curious and bold when hand-reared. Also, you can easily determine their sex by observing their plumage. They can bond strongly with their human companion; they are good at mimics and very entertaining while they play with their toys.

Acquiring new parrots

Buying a second bird should never be a subject of impulse-shopping. Thorough planning and adequate preparations need to be done. Every new bird that enters your house carries with it the risk of disease. For most Parrots, moving to a new home is a very stressful experience which can trigger symptoms of any underlying disease problem. Maintaining a period of isolation and observation is the part of necessary precaution – plus a recommended visit to an Avian vet.

You should understand that Parrots of all species and sizes are highly territorial and possessive regarding their cages. If you place the second bird in your pet’s cage, you are risking stress, serious injury or even death.

Please do remember that, your relationship with your Parrot also can be compromised or destroyed by the acquisition of a second bird due to jealousy. However, the benefits of providing a bird companion to your pet can be numerous.

When they reach maturity, some small Parrots stop being good pets and seemingly they need a mate. For others, their human is a fair enough substitute. There are no strict rules that always apply. If you want to be a good Parrot owner, you’ll need to learn how to observe and understand your pet’s behavior.

Keeping both male and a female of a prolific species such as the Lineolated or Bourke’s Parakeet and Peach-faced Lovebird, with all of the basic requirements for breeding means that at some point they will probably produce young.

Parting with the young might be hard for you from the emotional point of view – but if you aim to provide optimal living conditions for your pets, there is a limit to the number you can care for.

Sexing

Determining sex in some species is almost impossible by their outward appearance and behavior. However, all Parrots can be sexed using DNA technology. Taking a few feathers or a drop of blood and sending them to an avian diagnostic laboratory is all you have to do.

Remember, in smaller species, DNA sexing can cost almost as much as the bird itself.

Species suitable for home

Although some species are especially recommended for first-time owners, you should remember that the crucial factors are acquiring a young bird and always working on developing and maintaining a loving relationship with it, which doesn’t happen overnight and requires a lot of patience.

Species guides can be handy if you are looking for a single, small or medium sized companion Parrot. Green-cheeked (and other Pyrrhura conures – Maroon-bellied, for example), and Nanday and Mitred Conures, Senegal Parrot and Hahn’s Macaw are all ideal for first timers. If you are wishing for a bird with plenty of character, consider the Quaker Parakeet.

Small Conures probably won’t learn to mimic; while if you purchase a Quaker you can expect to have an excellent loud “talker.” When the Quaker is hand-reared and receives a lot of attention, his noise level usually doesn’t become intolerable.

However, every Parrot, except little Parrotlets and Lineolateds, will be loud from time to time. So, consult with all of your family members (and perhaps neighbours?) before purchasing one.

Hand-reared Lovebirds can also make decent pets, but their potential is hard to assess when they are still young. If you want to keep them tame, you need to handle them every day.

Cockatiels have a potential to be cute pets, and their males have a talent for mimics.

If you are planning on spending a significant amount of money on a parrot that is around 25 cm large, short-tailed true Parrots, Pionus Parrots and Black-headed Caiques are the ones you should consider.

Caiques will keep you laughing; they are strong willed clownish extroverts. Pionus (such as Maximilian’s), are more relaxed and easygoing. Both breeds are significantly less demanding than larger Parrots.

If you have long working hours and a number of other commitments during the day, which keeps you out of the house for hours, don’t even consider Grey or an Amazon Parrot, Cockatoo or a Macaw. They need as much attention and devotion as you would offer to a child.

Poicephalus Parrots, with Senegal and the Meyer’s as representatives of the class, can sometimes make good pets especially when they are young. However, their temperament is unpredictable; some are enchanting, some are too needy and difficult to handle. They often attach themselves to one member of the households and avoid others.

Which species are unsuitable as pets?

Some species are simply not suited to cage life. Even though Rosellas (Golden-mantled Rosella, for example) might attract you with their colors, if you don’t have an aviary don’t purchase them because they shouldn’t be kept in a cage.

Kakarikis (New Zealand Parakeets) are energetic, amusing aviary birds but equally unsuited for a cage. Although they are popular in today’s market, don’t buy them if you cannot provide the right conditions.

How to buy the right cage?

Whichever Parrot you choose, be ready to give more money for the cage than the bird itself. Buying a smaller cage to save some cash is a bad idea.

Small Parrots that are highly active (like Caiques) will need a larger cage in proportion to their size than the large ones. There has to be enough space for their swings and ropes too.

The width of the cage is a measurement that matters. It should be at least four times the width of bird’s opened wings or even larger if we are talking about Lovebirds and Parrotlets. The depth needs to be at least twice the bird’s length with fully opened wings.

Exercise is gained by flying from perch to perch, which is the reason why the cage’s height is less important. Cylindrical cages look beautiful but they are not healthy for your pet, so you must avoid them.

The feature you should look for when it comes to buying a cage is castors. This allows you to move around your home it more quickly.

Small cages are unacceptable and the fact that you will allow your parrot out at least once a day it is not good enough excuse to purchase them. Cramped spaces might make your Parrot aggressive out of fear or territoriality.

Many Conures and Caiques feel safe in dark, cozy corners, and they choose to retreat into a small wooden nestbox or a little cloth bag. That is why they will often try to make a bed under the newspaper on the cage floor. Some small species, like Lovebirds, Lineolated Parakeets, and Parrotlets, feel more secure in box-shaped cages, which are only open at the front.

Choosing perches and wood for gnawing

Natural wood parrot perches are highly recommended for all of the species. If you purchase a cage with plastic perches, make sure to replace at least one of them a with a dowel or apple and pear tree branch.

Willow is soft, and if you use it for perching, it needs to be replaced regularly. However, it is excellent for Lovebirds to make their nest with it.

Many Parrots prefer surprisingly thin perches. Once the pole becomes shiny and uncomfortable, you have to replace it because constant clutching to a perch of the same circumference can be damaging for your Parrot’s feet. Also, don’t forget to wash them frequently.

If you have a garden, in any case, plant an apple or pear tree and a quick-growing eucalypt, such as Eucalyptus gunni. This will offer your bird ideal materials for gnawing.

What are the most challenging species?

Grey Parrots seem to be one of the difficult to keep in a pet situation. They are extremely sensitive. Stress often causes feather plucking among them. Their high intelligence also makes them capable of dominating their human companions if they are not properly  socialised and trained. Using positive reinforcement is an excellent for training pet parrots, with excellent and long lasting results.

Smaller Parrots usually don’t engage in feather plucking, except for Lovebirds and Poicephalus species such as the Senegal. However, almost any Parrot can start plucking itself in a permanently stressful situation.

Thoughts on wing-clipping

Under normal circumstances, this practice shouldn’t be performed. Even though some Parrots like Caiques, which are not strong flyers are not significantly affected by this change, depriving a bird of its ability to fly is still cruel.

If you want your Parrot to remain healthy over its full lifespan (which is 20-30 years in most cases of smaller species), they need to fly. The sole act of flying keeps their muscles and heart in good condition. Wing-clipped birds often become overweight.

However, every bird must be carefully supervised when letting out of its cage. There are too many hazards in its surroundings. A play stand should be the center of the bird’s attention, to keep it out from other areas where it might get in trouble. Climbing on the curtains, perching on the top of a door or nibbling the spines of books can all be dangerous.

Remember – putting a chain screen on the doors that are most frequently used in your house might save your Parrot’s life.

If you want to learn more about Parrots in Rosemary Low’s species guides, visit her website: www.rosemarylow.co.uk

Cockatiel – Profile & Care Guide

Cockatiel

Common name: Cockatiel
Latin name: Nymphicus hollandicus
Length: 29-33 cm (11-12.9 in)
Weight: 80-100g (2.8-3.5 oz)
Life Span: 15 to 20 years
Origin: Australia
Noise Level: Moderate. Males usually sing to attract a mate or at the beginning and end of the day, while females chirp to get the attention of their owner or mate.

Cockatiel       Cockatiel       Cockatiel
Cockatiels – Browse our selection of Food, Toys, Cages & Accessories suitable for this species by clicking HERE

INTELLIGENCE

These tiny crested birds have charmed the hearts of humans worldwide based solely on their level of intelligence. Cockatiels are extremely intelligent and very social. They are curious and playful in nature, enjoying interaction with their human “flock”. They are master communicators using their crest to express surprise, interest, or anger. When properly stimulated, they are relatively easy to care for and make wonderful companions. Cockatiels that are constantly ignored can also become cage bound, lonely or depressed. While bored birds can start plucking out their own feathers, a depressed one can even starve itself to death. As bird owners ourselves we cannot stress how important socialisation and attentiveness is for your Cockatiel. Therefore, it is extremely important to keep your Cockatiel entertained and to fill their cage with variety of mind teasing toys. Furthermore, well – trained Cockatiels become extremely devoted to their human counterparts, and are even disciplined enough to enjoy riding around on your shoulder for most of the day. They are very fascinated by shiny objects such as earrings and various pieces of jewellery. They are also intelligent enough to remove these without your notice, so ladies watch out!

TALKING ABILITY

Cockatiels have a moderate talking ability with a 25-word vocabulary which is said to be the average. Most males can learn to say a few human words quite effectively such as ‘hello’ or ‘pretty bird’. Once they have completely learnt these words you will most likely find them attempting to join your conversations. These parrots will imitate household noises such as the hum of a microwave, telephone ringing or a dog’s bark. Males are known for being more vocal than female cockatiels, whose chirping is softer. Although the sound of a cockatiel talking is more unclear and muffled when compared to the sound of larger parrots like an African Grey, it’s still incredibly entertaining to hear. The fact that these birds are extremely intelligent and are master imitators means they can eventually be taught various phrases, as well as songs. Check out this little guy for instance whistling the Darth Vader them song from Star Wars:

This little guy is even more impressive singing the theme song to The Adams Family, Darth Vader, and even saying ‘what you doing’:

FEATHER PLUCKING

Feather plucking is a very common complex problem indicating either a physical or psychological problem with your Cockatiel. The causes of feather plucking can be due to disease, allergies, skin toxins, dietary requirements, or parasites. Some plucking is even due to a behavioural response. Observation is key when dealing with a feather plucker. You should bathe your feathery friend frequently to minimise any bacteria or irritants. Avoid giving them any attention for plucking, and that includes distracting them to avoid plucking. Rather commend your Cockatiel when they are playing quietly or when they are resting peacefully. Due to their intelligence, cockatiels need mental stimulation from you and from their environment, so make sure your birds have an assortment of toys to keep them playing. A mirror or two wouldn’t hurt either.  There are also a variety of skin soothing products and supplements you can invest in to make sure you cross out any skin related causes of feather plucking.

HOUSING FOR YOUR COCKATIEL

  • The cage that you purchase must be as large as possible.
  • As a rule of thumb, the cage size should be a minimum of 24″ x 18″ x 24″.
  • The bar spacing is very important and it should be more than ½” to 5/8” (1.3 – 1.6 cm).
  • Ideally locate it in a quiet corner away from busy or noisy parts of the house. From there they can see people coming and going but aren’t surrounded by activity and noise, as cockatiels are afraid of loud noises.
  • Cockatiel cages with horizontal bars on the sides are nice because these little birds love to climb.
  • Locate it out of direct sunlight and draughts.
  • Variety of toys should be available for your playful cockatiel. They enjoy a variety of toys such as seed treats, swings, ladders, bells, and mirrors. Tree branches and wooden chews provide excellent exercise and keep the beak trim. Bright shiny plastic toys are for parakeets, not cockatiels! Never give them rubber toys!
  • They should be allowed out of cage on daily basis, so they can play around and stretch their wings.

FEEDING YOUR COCKATIEL

  • A commercial cockatiel seed mix is generally regarded as suitable along with a good vitamin supplement.
  • Pelleted diets will also provide a fairly balanced feed, however it does not contain the phytonutrients (antioxidant pigments) that are found in vegetables, fruits, grains, and seeds, so should be supplemented.
  • You can supplement your cockatiel’s diet with green foods such as dandelion leaves, weeds, carrot tops, celery, watercress, spinach, peas, seedling grasses, and millet.
  • Various fruits will also be enjoyed such as apples, oranges, bananas and others.
  • Cuttlebones are recommended to help provide calcium and to help keep the beak trim.
  • Proteins can be offered in the form of mynah pellets, game bird starter, dog food, and even mashed hard-boiled eggs.
  • Grit should not be provided. Although it was previously thought that grit was needed by cockatiels, it has been found that they do not need grit and can actually cause problems if given to cockatiels. Parrots that eat seed whole without shelling it first require grit, but cockatiels shell their seed before eating it, so don’t need grit.
  • Fresh clean water should be available at all times. You can also add soluble vitamins and minerals to the water.
  • Food and water dishes should be washed daily.

Summary

Most handfed Cockatiels have a very sweet, even temperament, and will exhibit a rather curious and inquisitive nature. They can bond closely with their owners and can be extremely affectionate. Small, intelligent, and easy to care for, Cockatiels have graced the homes of bird lovers for many years.

Their engaging personalities and high trainability have put them near the top of the list of the most popular pet bird species.

When cared for properly, Cockatiels can be affectionate and fascinating pets. They are a wonderful species for inexperienced bird owners because of their natural friendly dispositions and curious playfulness. Their dispositions are sweet and convey emotions with their crest.

Of all the parakeets Cockatiels experience the most bird dander or dust. This is indicative of a healthy bird and the ‘powder’ makes their feathers silky-smooth.

These birds are particularly frightful and may have night frights which may cause potential injury. Providing your Cockatiel with a night light is a great mechanism to let them know what’s happening in their surrounds. Remember, like any parakeet – treat your cockatiel like a child, alas a very intelligent child!

Budgie (Budgerigar) – Profile & Care Guide

Common name: BUDGERIGAR (Budgie)
Latin name: Melopsittacus undulates
Length: 18-20 cm (7-7.8 in)
Weight: 22 – 32 gr (0.8-1.1 oz)
Life Span: 6 – 18 years
Origin: Central and Southern Australia
Noise Level: Quiet warbling to sharp chattering, quiet screech
Buy: Food, Toys, Cages & Accessories suitable for Budgie

BudgieBudgieBudgie

INTELLIGENCE

In spite of their small size, Budgies are big on brains and personality. Many have been taught to whistle tunes and talk, and are just as intelligent as some larger bird species. With proper training and socialization, they can be a delightful addition to almost any family.

TALKING ABILITY

These little birds can have vocabulary of more than 1700 words, with successful training. They are very chatty and they can even start making up their own phrases. The famous budgie called Disco has such a big vocabulary and pronounce the phrases he learned so well that everyone loves listening to his tiny and lovely voice:

FEATHER PLUCKING

Whilst it is not as common to feather pluck (as in African Grey parrots or cockatoos) it does still happen. They do require a substantial amount of mental stimulation and an adequate amount of undivided attention from their human companions.

HOUSING FOR YOUR BUDGIE

  • The cage that you purchase must be as large as possible. Note, the width is more important than the height as budgerigars need to have spacious flying space.
  • As a rule the cage size for one budgie should be a minimum of 12″ x 18″ x 18″, while for two – 39” x 20” x 32”.
  • The bar spacing is very important. And it should be no more than ½” to 5/8” (1.3 – 1.6 cm).
  • Ideally locate it in a quiet corner away from busy or noisy parts of the house. From there they can see people coming and going but aren’t surrounded by activity and noise, which can be stressful.
  • Locate it out of direct sunlight and draughts.
  • Variety of toys should be available for your playful budgie. Such as, foot toys, destructible (non-toxic) toys, non-destructible (non-toxic plastic) toys, food-finder toys, preening toys, different texture and size hanging perch toys, fir branches, push-and-pull toys (sliding up and down), vegetable tanned leather toys.
  • They should be allowed out of cage on daily basis.

FEEDING & SUPPLEMENTS FOR YOUR BUDGIE

  • Feed your budgies good quality, commercially available budgie food every day. We recommend complete pelleted foods, as they contain the right nutrients in the right amount. Always follow the amounts on the packet guidelines. Replace any uneaten food daily.
  • Give them bird grit, available from pet shops. This helps them grind their food in their stomach and helps with digestion.
  • Give vitamin supplements recommended by your vet.
  • You can give the items below in small quantities. Wash them first to remove any chemical traces. Cut them into smaller pieces. You don’t need to take the skin off. Give them to your budgies in a separate bowl from their pellets.
    Healthy organic foods & supplements: Apple, sweet potato, salad cress, grated carrot, grapes, pumpkin, winter squash, broccoli, parsley, spinach, mango, and papaya.
  • While many commercial budgie diets consist of only seeds, they alone do not provide adequate nutrition for pet birds. Most veterinarians recommend that budgies are placed on a diet of extruded pellets, as they contain important vitamins and nutrients and can be fortified with additional supplements.
  • Budgies should also be offered a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, including apples, grapes, and leafy greens.
  • Fresh clean water should be available at all times. Food and water dishes should be washed daily.

FACTS

Because of their small size, they are easy to keep and care for, making them a wonderful option for children. They are a snap to clean up after, inexpensive to feed, and can easily be kept in a small condo or apartment.

In spite of their small size, Budgies are big on brains and personality. Many have been taught to whistle tunes and talk, and are just as intelligent as some larger bird species. With proper training and socialization, they can be a delightful addition to any family.

While they look forward to time spent with their human companions, they can be quite independent, making them perfect for novice bird owners. Those that wish to form an especially strong bond with their pet budgie should resist the temptation to add other birds to the home, as budgies can sometimes be less enthusiastic about people in a flock environment.

Interesting fact about these little feathered friends is their cere which is blue in male birds and brown in female

Patagonian Conure – Profile & Care Guide

Common name: Patagonian Conure
Latin name: Cyanoliseus patagonus
Length: 45cms/18 inches
Weight: 256 – 281 grams
Life Span: 20 – 30 years
Origin: South-central Argentina, Chile and Uruguay
Noise Level: Very noisy

Patagonian Conure Patagonian Conure Patagonian Conure

Intelligence

These birds are quite intelligent, and can become fairly good talkers. However they do have a harsh voice and can get rather loud. This along with being very sociable makes them an ideal aviary bird.
They are very social and love companionship, their natural behaviour is to live in very large groups and to nest closely to one another. They make a very fine and affectionate pet.

Talking ability

These conures are usually “above fair” when compared to other conures, but they still don’t have the reputation like the Half-moon or Blue-Crown conures. They certainly can learn a couple or a few words/phrases.

Feather Plucking

Feather picking and susceptibility to the usual psittacine diseases can become health concerns with the Patagonian conure.

Housing for your Patagonian Conure

  • Conures love roomy cages! A cage best suited for a conure must be large enough that the tail does not touch the bottom, and the bird has enough room for unrestricted movements.
  • A minimum size of 44″x26″x40″ (120 x 65 x 100 cm) is recommended This will provide room for both horizontal exercise and vertical climbing.
  • We recommend providing two perches, sized between 3/4″ to 1″ (2 – 2.5 cm). Place one up high for roosting and one low by the food, water, and gravel dishes. Natural perches from willow, poplar and fruit trees are good for the bird’s feet and for it’s beak. The gnawing it will do on the perches will also alleviate your pet’s boredom.
  • Place the cage where it will be away from harmful fumes and drafts. To provide you pet with a sense of security, it is recommended that you cover the cage at night.

Feeding your Patagonian Conure

  • A conure’s diet consisting of a good small parrot mix which is supplemented with various fruits, green foods, millet spray, and occasionally some meal worms is generally regarded as suitable.
  • There are pros and cons to feeding only a formulated diet as well as feeding only a seed diet.

Supplements for your Patagonian Conure

  • Supplemental foods include apples, grapes, many garden vegetables such as spinach, lettuce, carrots, corn on the cob, peas, and sweet potatoes.
  • A cuttlebone, or gravel can be provided in a separate dish.
  • Additional proteins can be offered such as cottage cheese, hard boiled eggs, and raw peanuts.
  • Vitamins can be added, either to the drinking water or the food.

PS patagonian means “big feet” in Spanish.